Southern Pelion. Hiking and cruising in one. Trikeri of the mountain and the sea (book)
The other Pelion. Trikeri, the island that ascended the mountain
Our hiking group, as always under the guidance of Kostas, started off for the discovery of Southern Pelion. We started with a short visit to Volos. After seeing the very interesting Archaeological Museum, we took the road that runs round the Pagasitikos Gulf.
The more we were going to the South, the less the landscape was reminiscent of the classic image of Pelion: here we were seeing low hills and olive trees. And a light more Mediterranean than in the ‘classic’ Pelion.
And as we were approaching the tip of the peninsula, the vegetation was getting thinner and becoming bushy. We had entered another world: Trikeri.
In the extremity of Magnesia, until very recently Trikeri was only accessible by sea. A real island on the mountain.
And not by accident. Trikeri was indeed an island that once climbed the mountain. The original settlement was on the island of Palia (old) Trikeri. But the pirate raids forced the inhabitants to climb the mountain towards the end of the 16th century.
Because of its isolation, Trikeri particularly developed shipping. At the time of the Revolution of 1821, it had one of the largest merchant fleets. It participated offering ships and sailors. After the suppression of the Revolution in the rest of Pelion, it continued in the region of Trikeri.
Trikeri today. Past glory
Witnesses of bygone glory of Trikeri are its mansions. Most of them dilapidated, they are patiently waiting for their revival.
I left the group and wandered in the village for photos, not meeting anyone. Until I saw some old women sitting in front of their homes. I asked which way was the church of the Holy Trinity and they showed me. But since they saw me going elsewhere, they cried that I was going the wrong way. I replied that on my way I wanted to photograph the old houses. And then one says to the others:
-How about that? The shacks…
Obviously here we are far from the mansions – goldmines of the ‘classic’ Pelion, which from ‘shacks’ became sought-after and luxurious guesthouses. But who knows what the future holds? Someday also Trikeri will be discovered and the ‘shacks’ will be called ‘mansions’. For good; For bad?
One of the “shacks” of Trikeri: Koutmanis mansion
Defensive tower incorporated into a house. From the time of piracy
The rest of the article, in this book
About the author
Hello! I am Denis, an architect based in Athens, Greece. I teach history of art and architecture in higher education. That’s one passion of mine. The other one is hiking, in and out of town. If you follow me, I’ll share my discoveries with you.
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